The Many Faces of Cab

From a consumer point of view, it's relatively easy to pronounce and its hard to not like its deep, ruby colour, black currant and cedar aromatics and full body. Tannic when young, it is capable of long aging thus satisfying the collectors among you. Perhaps most noteworthy to the consumer is its compatibility with food. Wonderful with grilled/roasted red meat, medium-hard aged cheeses and other full-flavoured food, it is the ideal compliment.

From a grape growers perspective, it is relatively easy and problem-free to grow. Winemakers love it because it blends very well with other varietals allowing them to soften its tannins and add different flavours and characteristics. Believe it or not, it's getting harder and harder to find 100% Cab wines. Even if the label says Cab, it might very well have a small percentage of something else mixed in. Labelling regulations for most countries only stipulate that a certain percentage of the stated grape on the label has to be in the wine in order to wear its name. Finally, it takes oak treatment superbly. Oak, when properly used and in moderation, adds much to this grape.

All this having been said, Cabernet Sauvignon does have many faces, depending on where it is produced. It is possible that every style of this versatile grape might not appeal to your taste. In general, cool climate growing regions create Cab that is leaner and somewhat less aggressive. Much of this has to do with the fact that heat units and sunshine during the growing season are usually lower and acid levels in the grapes are higher. Warm climate growing regions produce more aggressive, fatter, jammier, more alcoholic styles, mainly because of higher heat units and lower acid levels in the grapes.

One of the biggest differences in style is between the Old World (Europe) and the New World (everywhere else). Old World styles tend to produce Cabs that have more of what I like to call the 'bottom end' upfront and the fruit in the background. I'm talking about 'terroir'(elements of the soil) aromatics and flavours of earth, tar, leather, mushroom, cigar box, coffee, tobacco, black licorice, etc. New World versions are more 'fruit forward' in character. In these the fruit (black currant, black cherry, red currant, etc.) is upfront and the 'bottom end' is in the background. When you get collaborations of Old World and New World producers making wine in the others country, some crossover of styles result. Even the use of oak is different from Old to New World. Old World producers of Cab tend to be subtler with their use while New World producers are more aggressive with it.

Each country also puts its own slant on Cab. In the northern hemisphere, France, especially Bordeaux, rarely bottles Cab straight up. It is almost always blended with at least one or several other varietals. Although, Cab may often occupy the highest percentage in that blend, its character is definitely altered. France's Cabs are also the epitome of the Old World style, as described above. Southern European countries like Spain, Portugal and Italy produce styles that are fruitier and brighter. Canadian Cabs, as a rule, tend to be more Old World in style, especially as they age. Most of the U.S., including the Pacific Northwest, would fall somewhat into that category, as well. However, California, being somewhat warmer, produces bigger, jammier, more alcoholic styes, often with an herbaceous note.

The southern hemisphere is very interesting when it comes to Cab. Australia is known for its big, fat, jammy, in-your-face style, often with a eucalyptus note. South African counterparts fall somewhere between New and Old World versions. Chile delivers, dusty, fruit-driven selections while Argentina tends to fall into the Old World style with more 'terroir' New Zealand Cabs are leaner than Australia's with more of an Old World feel.

Perhaps the best way to get a handle on the many faces of Cab is to simply obtain several from different parts of the world and taste them side by each. Regardless of its style, the consumers' love affair with Cabernet Sauvignon continues and I don't see that changing any time soon.

"The Wine Doctor" is Edward Finstein, award-winning author, TV host, renown wine journalist, international wine judge, Professor of Wine and consultant.