Sauvignon Blanc |
Sauvignon Blanc - A Wine for our Times
Perhaps no other grape variety has had such an on/off love affair with the
consumer as Sauvignon Blanc. Ideally, it produces fresh, easy drinking,
versatile, white wines that are specifically great for the warmer weather.
Who can argue with its dry, crisp, zesty, aggressively recognizable, ready
to drink, extremely food- friendly demure? However, its herbaceous, grassy
character tends to attract mixed reactions from drinkers. First and foremost, this chameleon grape does best in cooler climates resulting in textbook aromatics and flavours. It's all about that gooseberry, herbaceous character with a leaner, flintier, structure. That's why, traditionally, this noble grape variety from the vinifera group of
vines (European) has been a mainstay in northern Europe for many years.
It's huge in France. Blended with Semillon and Muscadelle, it adds backbone to
dry, white Bordeaux. Straight up as a single varietal, it is renowned in the
Central Vineyards of the Loire Valley. Such wines as Sancerre and Pouilly-
Fume from these parts are touted the world over. There is lots of it grown
and vinified in the south of the country in the Languedoc and Rousillon
areas, most of which are Vin de Pays (country wine). You see some of it in
northeastern Italy, eastern Europe and northern Spain. Other cool -climate
viticultural areas of the world do a great job with it in its textbook
style. Canada and the northern U. S. are prime examples. However, in warmer
climates, it;s a different story.
What happens to it in warm climes is it tends to become somewhat 'swampy' with more tropical fruity notes and sometimes 'flabby' (lacking acid).
Already herbaceous, the warmer temperatures tend to push this character a
bit far and, as is the case in many warm viticultural areas, getting enough
acid in grapes can be a problem. With a grape whose entire structure and
appeal depends on crisp acidity, it's not hard to see the potential
downfall. However, planting at higher altitudes, closer to the sea or in
cooler micro-climates in these warmer regions have proven highly successful.
Just look at some wine-producing countries in the southern hemisphere.
In my professional opinion (I love saying that), the countries south of the
equator that do the best job with Sauvignon Blanc are New Zealand, South
Africa, Chile and Uruguay. New Zealand has carved out quite the niche for
itself with its rich, ripe complex, tropical fruity offerings. Strong ocean
breezes and cooler micro-climates do the job here. Probably surprising to
many of you, Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best white varietals produced in
South Africa. Judging every year at the Michelangelo Wine Awards Competition
(mostly South African wines) in SA, I am constantly amazed at the great
quality level of her bottlings of this grape. Somewhere between France and
New Zealand styles, the wines are fruity, zesty and well-structured. Again
planting at higher altitudes, closer to the sea or in cooler micro-climates
have paid off. There are some really decent samples from cooler
micro-climates in Chile, especially the Casablanca Valley. Her styles are
not unlike South Africa's. It's only a matter of time until Uruguay's wines
get more recognition. Having judged recently at the Cata D'Or Wine Awards in
that country, I was extremely impressed with her Sauvignon Blancs.
In the Old World, Sauvignon Blanc usually does not receive oak treatment
with the exception of Pouilly-Fume in the Loire. However, a recent trend to
oak this grape is afoot. Mondavi of California coined the phrase 'Fume-Blanc' to simulate the original oak-treated Pouilly-Fume of France.
Other southern hemisphere countries have followed suit using oak with some
selections. I suppose the thinking behind this is to take the edge off the
grassy, herbaceous character making it more consumer-friendy, as well as,
adding some richer mouthfeel. Certainly, its zesty nature may not be
everyone's cup of tea. However, for most real aficionados of this varietal,
oak is not really desired. The crisp, squeaky clean, zesty, refreshing
profile is what makes it a wonderful aperitif, dynamite with fish and
shellfish, yummy with poultry, divine with vegetables and herbs and to die
for with Chevre (goat cheese). In my mind, and probably in the minds of SB
lovers, oaking it detracts from its inherent character somewhat basically
turning it into (dare I say it) a Chardonnay clone of sorts.
Regardless of whether you like it 'au natural' or with oak, Sauvignon Blanc
is brimming with character and a grape variety worth checking out. Probably
one of the most versatile, food-friendly wines out there, it's certainly a
nice change of pace from 'you know what'.
"The Wine Doctor" is Edward Finstein, award-winning author, TV host, renown wine journalist, international wine judge, Professor of Wine and consultant. His website is: www.winedoctor.ca |
< Prev |
---|