Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc - A Wine for our Times

Perhaps no other grape variety has had such an on/off love affair with the consumer as Sauvignon Blanc. Ideally, it produces fresh, easy drinking, versatile, white wines that are specifically great for the warmer weather. Who can argue with its dry, crisp, zesty, aggressively recognizable, ready to drink, extremely food- friendly demure? However, its herbaceous, grassy character tends to attract mixed reactions from drinkers. First and foremost, this chameleon grape does best in cooler climates resulting in textbook aromatics and flavours. It's all about that gooseberry, herbaceous character with a leaner, flintier, structure. That's why, traditionally, this noble grape variety from the vinifera group of vines (European) has been a mainstay in northern Europe for many years.




It's huge in France. Blended with Semillon and Muscadelle, it adds backbone to dry, white Bordeaux. Straight up as a single varietal, it is renowned in the Central Vineyards of the Loire Valley. Such wines as Sancerre and Pouilly- Fume from these parts are touted the world over. There is lots of it grown and vinified in the south of the country in the Languedoc and Rousillon areas, most of which are Vin de Pays (country wine). You see some of it in northeastern Italy, eastern Europe and northern Spain. Other cool -climate viticultural areas of the world do a great job with it in its textbook style. Canada and the northern U. S. are prime examples. However, in warmer climates, it;s a different story.

What happens to it in warm climes is it tends to become somewhat 'swampy' with more tropical fruity notes and sometimes 'flabby' (lacking acid). Already herbaceous, the warmer temperatures tend to push this character a bit far and, as is the case in many warm viticultural areas, getting enough acid in grapes can be a problem. With a grape whose entire structure and appeal depends on crisp acidity, it's not hard to see the potential downfall. However, planting at higher altitudes, closer to the sea or in cooler micro-climates in these warmer regions have proven highly successful. Just look at some wine-producing countries in the southern hemisphere.

In my professional opinion (I love saying that), the countries south of the equator that do the best job with Sauvignon Blanc are New Zealand, South Africa, Chile and Uruguay. New Zealand has carved out quite the niche for itself with its rich, ripe complex, tropical fruity offerings. Strong ocean breezes and cooler micro-climates do the job here. Probably surprising to many of you, Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best white varietals produced in South Africa. Judging every year at the Michelangelo Wine Awards Competition (mostly South African wines) in SA, I am constantly amazed at the great quality level of her bottlings of this grape. Somewhere between France and New Zealand styles, the wines are fruity, zesty and well-structured. Again planting at higher altitudes, closer to the sea or in cooler micro-climates have paid off. There are some really decent samples from cooler micro-climates in Chile, especially the Casablanca Valley. Her styles are not unlike South Africa's. It's only a matter of time until Uruguay's wines get more recognition. Having judged recently at the Cata D'Or Wine Awards in that country, I was extremely impressed with her Sauvignon Blancs.

In the Old World, Sauvignon Blanc usually does not receive oak treatment with the exception of Pouilly-Fume in the Loire. However, a recent trend to oak this grape is afoot. Mondavi of California coined the phrase 'Fume-Blanc' to simulate the original oak-treated Pouilly-Fume of France. Other southern hemisphere countries have followed suit using oak with some selections. I suppose the thinking behind this is to take the edge off the grassy, herbaceous character making it more consumer-friendy, as well as, adding some richer mouthfeel. Certainly, its zesty nature may not be everyone's cup of tea. However, for most real aficionados of this varietal, oak is not really desired. The crisp, squeaky clean, zesty, refreshing profile is what makes it a wonderful aperitif, dynamite with fish and shellfish, yummy with poultry, divine with vegetables and herbs and to die for with Chevre (goat cheese). In my mind, and probably in the minds of SB lovers, oaking it detracts from its inherent character somewhat basically turning it into (dare I say it) a Chardonnay clone of sorts.

Regardless of whether you like it 'au natural' or with oak, Sauvignon Blanc is brimming with character and a grape variety worth checking out. Probably one of the most versatile, food-friendly wines out there, it's certainly a nice change of pace from 'you know what'.



"The Wine Doctor" is Edward Finstein, award-winning author, TV host, renown wine journalist, international wine judge, Professor of Wine and consultant.
His website is: www.winedoctor.ca

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